Why doesn't Audio MIDI Setup connect over wi-fi in Monterey?

I routinely open Audio MIDI Setup on my Mac, click one of my iOS devices that is on the same wi-fi network, and click the Connect button to initiate a MIDI connection. That's all it takes to send MIDI back and forth over wi-fi. But last fall I got an Apple Silicon Mac with macOS 12 Monterey, and on this machine, the Connect button is always disabled. I don't know if the problem is with the Apple processor or Monterey, but the setup I've routinely used before has never worked on this machine. I thought it might be a bug in macOS 12, but I'm now on 12.3 and it remains. Do I need to turn something on somewhere to activate this function? Google searches have turned up no other examples of people seeing this problem; is it specific to me?