Changing system font on Google Pixel running Android 12

I have a Google Pixel 3a running Android 12. Once upon a time – around 2019 – it had a "Themes" feature: Later it disappeared, maybe with a Play Services update. Is the functionality still available under the hood? For example, can I still change the system font? (Without root access, as I couldn't find any way to root it without going through the official "unlock > wipe" sequence.)