Google Hangouts on Mavericks in Safari or Chrome: how to adjust audio settings?

I could have sworn that Google Hangouts *used* to provide a settings panel for testing and adjusting audio settings. I know I've used it in the past: it was a facility that showed volume levels, let you play a test sound, etc. Now I cannot find it anywhere. After starting a video Hangout in the latest Safari or Chrome on OSX 10.9.5, clicking on the gear icon in the top portion of the screen brings up a dialog that has only the following options: The only feature now is "Play test sound"; none of the submenus, or elsewhere in Hangouts as far as I can see, is there any ability to adjust volume, test that the microphone is working properly, etc. I feel I'm either a complete idiot now or dreamt the whole thing. What am I missing? How do I adjust sound settings for Google Hangouts? I really believe there used to be a more extensive preferences/settings panel than the one (the only one) I can find now.