Two months ago I was given away a Mac Pro 1,1 (A1186), in perfect working condition. Some days later, I had the bright idea of testing a working PCI express video card I removed from a PC on my Mac, but it didn’t turn on. So I removed the video card, reinstalled the old one, and again, it didn’t turn on. I removed the 3V battery to reset the PRAM, replaced it with a new one, performed a SMC reset, and tried everything I read on the forums, with no luck. I checked the logic board status LED’s and I noticed they all remained off. Suspecting the culprit was the PSU, I ordered a second-hand PSU on eBay (Delta DPS-980AB A), I installed it yesterday but my Mac still doesn’t turn on. No status lights, no clicking sound, no spinning fans. I checked all the connectors again. I tested it by unplugging connector # 4 and shorting ‘PS_ON’ plug and ground together with a paper clip. The PSU switches on, all the fans start spinning, all the led’s on the RAM raiser light up, but the logic board LED’s don’t light up, the switch-on button doesn’t respond and as soon as I remove the paper clip, the PSU switches off. Conclusion: the “new” PSU works fine, so does the old PSU (I tested the voltages on both of them), and my logic board is toasted, I’m afraid. Is there any “miraculous” procedure to revive my Mac, or do I have to buy a second-hand logic board?

EDIT: Do not do this. This created a startup error that has now forced me to reinstall my OS from Internet Recovery. I'm one of a number of MacBook Pro users unfortunately plagued by a longstanding issue apparently related to faulty power chips on the motherboard of my 2015 Retina MacBook Pro (most notably documented [here](https://outluch.wixsite.com/rmbp-crash) as well as on a number of Macrumors threads and AD questions). It's my understanding that this issue affects the the 820-3662 and 820-3787 logic boards. For clarity's sake, I have methodically assessed and eliminated most other potential causes for the crashes, and when I initially diagnosed the problem, I went through all the typical steps including several fresh installs, EtreCheck, and an Apple hardware and software diagnostic (all unremarkable). This problem has been reliably solved in the past by disabling several Thunderbolt-related kernel extensions on the SSV (and reportedly as well by [this app](https://realmacmods.com/product/macbook-pro-nocrash-utility/) , though I haven't tried it myself), which I've been doing every time I update the OS. Probably against my better judgment, I updated to Big Sur, and after a bit of forum trawling (I am not a developer and much of this is over my head), my understanding is that Big Sur has, in the process of becoming more secure, made it much more difficult to write the SSV. On advice from several threads and blog posts, including the following: - https://eclecticlight.co/2020/06/25/big-surs-signed-system-volume-added-security-protection/ - http://disq.us/p/2ak4vda - https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/395508/mount-root-as-writable-in-big-sur I've done the following: 1. Boot into the Terminal in Recovery Mode (reboot holding Command-R and open Terminal under Utilities in the menu bar). 2. mount -uw /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD (on my Mac, I understand nomenclature can vary). 3. Navigate to the relevant folder with cd /Systems/Library/Extensions/ 4. Rename the relevant kernel extensions from the suffix .kext to .kext.BAK (disabling them) with mv AppleThunderboltNHI.kext AppleThunderboltNHI.kext.BAK, for example 5. Repeating the above with each of the relevant kernel extensions - many users have been able to get by with just disabling the above, others have had to disable nearly all thunderbolt-related kernel extensions. Fortunately I don't actually use these functions on my MacBook. The list that I used this time comes from [here](https://dean.codes/macbook-pro-retina-15-inch-mid-2014-thunderbolt-issue/) and includes: - AppleThunderboltDPAdapters.kext - AppleThunderboltIP.kext - AppleThunderboltPCIAdapters.kext - AppleThunderboltEDMService.kext - AppleThunderboltUTDM.kext - and finally, the above-mentioned AppleThunderboltNHI.kext 4. Disabled protections with csrutil authenticated-root disable 5. "Blessed" the changes I've made in the snapshot I've been working with with sudo bless --folder /Volumes/Macintosh\ HD/System/Library/CoreServices --bootefi --create-snapshot 6. Rebooted into normal mode. Thus far, seems like it's working (I've had no crashes) but I'll need to use the laptop for a week or so to tell - the crashes are fairly unpredictable. I've posted this for two purposes: 1. I hope that if this works, it's a useful resource for others that are less savvy, like myself. 2. As mentioned, this is well above my head and I'm hoping someone can check my work and make sure I haven't done anything completely egregious. For example, do I need to re-enable the systems protections that I've disabled, or does that happen automatically when I reboot into normal mode? Thank you so much for your time, I really appreciate this community.

I got some moisture damage on my M1 MacBook Pro that I bought last year (there’s a greenish spot on the logic board). A third-party local repair shop says that the moisture spot is in a place where the voltage difference isn’t very high and it can be repaired (for much less than the cost of replacing the entire board). My question is — if this person tries to repair it but it doesn’t work, can I still bring the MacBook Pro to Apple and ask them to replace the entire logic board with a brand new one? Can they just refuse to replace the board if they think it’s been touched by a third-party repair shop? I know my warranty gets voided, but outside the warranty, can the entire official Apple repair service get voided? Really nervous, so I’d appreciate a response a lot!

As I read , 8 GB is max for this model, such logic board price is around $140. Now I have model with 4 GB, i5. But I found a store review on AliExpress that shows 16 GB for that model: Another photo from AliExpress description - they have differen photos for different years, but from 2013 to 2017 they have single photo - so it looks like I can replace to any year?

I recently asked a [question](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/462153/dead-apple-watch-security-risk) about a dead Apple Watch 1st generation and whether I could dispose of it without worrying about my data being stolen. I got several responses. One in particular stood out to me, from Allan: >...there’s still no substitute for ensuring data destruction than physically destroying it with a hammer, if you have the technical ability, I’d disassemble it and sell it for parts and only destroy the logic board. Could I use the logic board for anything useful? I saw a video on YouTube where someone turned the NAND flash chip on an old iPhone into a USB flash drive. I know it would be small, but could I do it with this? The video is [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqWLSK2lgsI) .

I have a Macbook Pro 2016 model (Touchbar). Few days ago, I got a critical upgrade error and the mac wasn't starting. I went to the service center and they replaced the logicboard. My mac is running fine now. The serial number has been changed which i know is expected. My Question is - How do I know if the service center has inserted a new logicboard or just replaced it with some other unused Mac's logicboard on my machine? I checked the serial number on https://checkcoverage.apple.com/coverage and this is what it returns:

MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2017, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports)
Purchase Date: August 2017
Serial Number: XXXXXXX

Coverage Expired

Does that mean the service center just used some 2017 model macbook and placed the logicboard on my laptop? What should https://checkcoverage.apple.com/coverage return for a new logicboard? Should I be expecting a Purchase Date: July 2023, since the repair was done this month?

I have an mbp late 2015 model and I want to do a DIY upgrade to the maximum compatible logic board, but I can't seem to google up any reliable information, and it turns out that as bizarre as it is, the board's port etc can be compatible from 2013 to 2014, but completely different in 2015, then completely different again in 2016? Which complicate things even more. Where can I look up a chart or a list or in my case specifically, a late 2015 A1502? So my question is where can I find information regarding the compatibility and you can answer by either giving me such information, a link, or tell me what is the maximum compatible logic board model for my machine, which is A1502 late 2015. Thanks in advance!

I want to upgrade my Macbook Pro 13 inch mid 2009's logic board with a new quad core i7 and 2gb or more radeon graphics. I have a few questions: 1. Will this affect my OSX installation? 2. Are Macbook Pro 15 inch and 17 inch boards compatible with 13 inch? 3. Will the power supply suffice? Please send models of logic boards that are compatible. Thanks

I have a faulty logic board that I removed from a MacBook Pro, 13 inch, Late 2016; my problem is that I forgot to mark down if it was an i5 or i7 logic board before removing the part. The board has the model 820-00875-A. Is this enough to conclusively determine which CPU it has, and if not, is there any other way besides reinstalling it into another Macbook? Thank you! EDIT: The board I am trying to identify came from a function keys (non-touchbar) Mac if that helps to narrow it down. EDIT: I removed the heatsink and on the CPU there are 2 sequences etched: J615C415SRJM and 02168, neither of which bring anything on Google.

It all begun when my factory Seagate Barracuda started clicking. I knew the end was nigh for my beloved iMac 27" 10,1. I then watched some tutorials, did some research and realised I could do this and upgraded it with a fantastic OWC Mercury Electra 1 TB SSD kit. Results were great, honestly feels like a new computer. Addicting I would say. I had 8 GB of RAM and yesterday I maxed it out with four 4 GB Crucial DDR3 modules. I already had the best (for the time) option for the GPU so the only thing left (for staying in the official in-period specs) is to swap out my Intel Core 2 Duo 3,06 GHz (model E7600) for a Core 2 Duo 3,33 GHz (E8600): 3 MB cache vs 6 MB cache and around 10-15% gains in performance (maybe?). For a grand total of 25 € shipped. Honestly, I watched a couple videos and read the official Apple Technical Guide about removing the logic board and I feel I might be pushing my luck a little bit. Especially all those cables, I have this crunching feeling that I could snap something that sat there undisturbed for 13 years. And removing that infrared receiver behind the front Apple logo... simply scares me. But on the other hand, I could officially max out the specs for a 2009 machine! The thrills! The excitement! Not to mention giving a good cleaning inside, renew the thermal paste, change the CR2032 battery (what is it used for anyway?)... I cleaned what I could during the SSD surgery but there is room for more by removing *MOAR*. 1. First of all, I think I duly did my researches but this is a plug & play swap, right? No funny business like EPROM flashing or macOS patching. I also know i5 & i7 are not officially supported on my board. 2. Someone went down that route? Should I? Shouldn't I? I sort of see myself as a DIY guy and carried out various successful projects (on cars too) but I fear the unknown. 3. Are the perf gains actually noticeable like the SSD + RAM upgrades or am I just lying to myself and the only benefit will be knowing that I maxed out my machine by gleefully staring at the "About This Mac" window? 3. Words of caution? Advice? Should I just move on with my life instead of following this inane goal even if the idea of putting some more life in this iMac has been a great project during those last days and is pretty motivating? Cheers for *any* input!

I have an A1707 (15" 2017 MacBook Pro) with 2.8GHz and 256GB working flawlessly, but I want to upgrade the SSD, because it's filling to capacity every month. So, can I replace my logic board with another one that has a 3.1Ghz and 2TB drive? Or, can I only replace it with another 2.8Ghz with 512GB instead?

Any idea what the part number is for this MacBook Air (A1466) logic board, or where I can find it printed on the board? ![MacBook Air (A1466) logic board ][1] It has no xxx-xxxx-x number on it and the serial number returns a different board type. I'd like to find out the actual part number so that I can replace the board. The box says i5 (1.3 GHz) 4 GB, year 2013. I've given my serial number to three suppliers who've all sent me a different logic board. Something is amiss somewhere between the original config and the board now. So if I can just match this board, it would be great.

I have not seen such lines before. I'm not sure if it’s logic board or display problem. Can someone identify by looking at the picture?

I have three early 2013 macbook pro logic boards, one will load apple AHT (apple hardware test), the other two produce the following error booting into diagnostics: > Error: 8000000000000003, Cannot load 'EFI/Drivers/TestSupport.efi' > > Status: 0x00000003 Using all the same parts except the logic boards swapped confirms the issue is based solely within the logic board itself. I have tried using the github AHT for this model by both moving it into the .diagnostics folder and creating USB media, both produce the same error. After days of research with little solid info, I have seen anecdotal accounts that: - this was caused by apple with an os based update that also updated the efi firmware and broke AHT at some point, - some people have successfully downgraded or restored the firmware to fix their issue on other models, but cannot find any information on how to do this on this model, or where to even get the old firmware to do this with. Does anyone know how to get the efi based AHT to work again when they encounter this error? Apple store refuses to help with this issue.

**THE ISSUE:** Mac OS No longer has a serial number and shows "Serial Number (system): Not Available" in system profiler. **STEPS TO PRODUCE THE PROBLEM:** 1. I had a botched filesystem runnig mac os Catalina 10.5.7, and so i decided to do a clean install, and then do an internet recovery. To be sure my ssd was totally clean including the efi partition, i zero'ed the drive with dd. Then, booted to internet recovery, which oddly booted up to Big Sur recovery even though i never upgraded to Big Sur. I decided to install Big Sur anyway via internet recovery, and after the install, i noticed that in "**About this mac**" as well as through a terminal command, that my serial number was labeled as "unavailable", and is no longer recognized in the MLB of the "Mail logic board." 2. Furthermore, i noticed that my icloud automatically signed my mac out from my icloud interface in the settings panel on my iphone. I never signed myself out before erasing. **EXPERIMENTS AND QUIRKS:** One more strange quirk is that apparantly, this somehow also deactivated all of apples DRM (digital rights management) for any of the apps that i had purchased. I concluded this, because after the clean install from internet recovery, I DID NOT SIGN INTO ICLOUD. Then, instead of importing my files with migration utility, i simply dragged and dropped my digitally purchased app store apps from my time-machine backup, onto my clean install. After removing time machine drive, i opened the apps, and low and behold, all of them worked perfectly without asking me to sign into icloud, or log into the app store. How is this possible? **MY IDEAS PERTAINING TO THE ISSUE:** 1. Supposedly, once a certified apple technician burns a serial number into your logic board, it is impossible to remove unless you have specialized software that contacts apples servers with a registered signature and encryption key, and waits for apples servers to send authorization to write or remove the serial number from the logic board. Assuming that apples technology is impenetrable, then you would have to assume that someone stole apples special software and one of their keys, and used it on my logic board remotely to deserialize my mlb. 2. The other possibility, is that apples hardware and logic boards are flawed, and they can erase their oen serial numbers. other than that, im out of ideas. **MY QUESTION:** 1. Can someone explain how i lost my serial number, and explain the weird quirks (missing drm, unauthorized deregistering my mac from icloud) that are happening as a consequnce? 2. Then, can someone please tell me how I can get my serial number burned back into the mlb so that i can use imessage on my mac again? 3. I found a website with some software called BlankBoard Serialzer at https://www.macintoshrepository.org/26584-blank-board-serializer?ns=1 Could anyone tell me if this sofware is safe to use and if I should use it to re-burn my serial number into my mac? Thanks for any help! Check screenshots below!

As the title gives away I spilled a glass of wine on my mac. I turned it head down right a way and dried it. Every thing seemed to work fine until half an hour later i put it in charge. It first kept disconnecting from charge and then it wouldn't charge anymore. So I opened it up and there seems to be some kind of stain near the thunderbolt ports on the logic board the rest of it seems to be fine and there also a blinking light. This is the stain picture: This is the LED that is still on: Will it be necessary to change the whole logic board? I am considering sending it to an apple certified repair shop. I am just looking to walk in prepared as to not get robbed as I am a student and can't really afford a $700 new logic board. Thanks!

I've come across what appears to be a vintage PCI card for the Macintosh. I've searched everywhere to find out what it is, but so far it's been unsuccessful. It has what appears to be memory sims and at least two FPGAs, but has no external ports, making it unlikely to be a conventional graphics card. It's labeled as PowerShop Mezzanine and possibly made by Adaptive Solutions. The board was copyright back in 1995, placing it around the PPC era of Macintosh machines. Any information on this board?

I have an early 2016 MacBook A1534 with a failed SSD. I was thinking of buying a logic board from the A1534 early 2015. Everything looks fine by the looks of it all connections match up just fine. But maybe there’s more I don’t know. Can anyone tell me if it will work? Could the pins be different? Picture on the left is a 2016 and on the right is a 2015. " class="img-fluid rounded" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; margin: 10px 0;" loading="lazy"> " class="img-fluid rounded" style="max-width: 100%; height: auto; margin: 10px 0;" loading="lazy">

I have changed the Logic Board from my Macbook, is there any chance that the serial number is another different one from the original Macbook? I really need help. Thanks!

I have a MacBook Pro that got liquid spilled on it. I cleaned it up and everything works except the fact that it no longer has a serial number. When I go to look at System Information, it says "Serial Number: Unavailable." I've tried re-flashing the serial using Apple's Blank Board Serializer tool, which didn't work. I think that the place where the serial is physically stored on the board is somehow broken. So is there any way to "spoof" a serial number so that FaceTime and iMessage work correctly? I've been looking at trying to set boot arguments, or change kernel extensions, or something. Where in the boot sequence does the OS look for the board's serial number, and how can I change that? It seems to be stored in the NVRAM, but I can't access it.