I have a 2011 17" MacBook Pro with a 1TB HDD installed and running the latest OSX. I am looking at installing a SSD in the original HD bay for my OS and Programs and moving the 1TB drive to the optical bay. My current HDD location says it has a link speed of 6Gb/s and negotiated link speed of 3Gb/s and the optical drive says it has a link speed of 6Gb/s with a negotiated speed of 1.5Gb/s. So my question is twofold. First, will my current drive work correctly in the optical drive bay and secondly, can I install a 1TB in the optical bay caddy? Most of the adapters specify up to 500Gb.

I have a MacBook Pro Unibody mid 2012 15'' with several Pentalobe screws used to attach the Motherboard. Unfortunately, I lost some screws after replacing the Keyboard. While I still have most of them, and the Motherboard doesn't move, I was wondering if I could replace all Pentalobe Screws with some other screws. I first thought about ordering some extra Pentalobe Screws but I couldn't find a buyer for those specific screws online Do you know what kind of screws I need to replace the Pentalobe Screws ? Thank you so much for your help !

My mid-2009 13" unibody MacBook Pro died years ago. It's probably not worth fixing. I'm just curious if a dead CMOS/PRAM battery could have caused its demise? *iFixIt* doesn't list any non-primary batteries in its online store or replacement guides for any unibody Macbook Pros. Did these models lack one altogether or was it just soldered to the logic board (In which case it'd be kind of like [planned obsolescence](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence)) ?

**To make a long question short:** What's the proper way to replace a rubber spring (inverted cup-like thing) under a keycap, specifically the Tab key on a unibody design MacBook Pro or Air? **Details:** I just bought a used MacBook Pro (so it's out of warranty), and noticed the Tab key felt spongy. Also, after first opening up the laptop, the key seemed to be stuck down until I tapped it a few times. I had a replacement rubber spring from my old MacBook, so I tore the one off the new laptop and put that one in its place, without gluing it down or anything. Right away after that I noticed that pressing Caps Lock would sometimes trigger a tab; maybe one time in seven or eight presses. Worried I had shorted something, I shut down, repositioned the spring, and booted back up, and things seemed normal again. Satisfied with the way the Tab key was now behaving, I decided to superglue the spring as instructed [on laptopkey.com](http://www.laptopkey.com/blog/?cat=20) : Squeeze a small amount of super glue onto a sheet of paper. Then dip the edge of the rubber cup into the super glue. Then place the rubber cup in its place. Let it dry. You want to have the minimum amount of glue on your cup, just enough to make the cup stick while installing the hinges onto your keyboard. I let the glue dry for a few seconds before putting the key cap back on, and while I was waiting I pressed on the spring a few times to make sure it was still springy. Unfortunately, I got way more glue on the spring than I had intended, and it oozed out a little. I also later realized the spring was displaced a little from where the original one had been (as evidenced by the still-visible metal circle under it). When that was done and I booted back up, I found the key to be better than before, but it still seemed to require a little more pressure than other keys, and it didn't make the same clicky sound when I hit it. I decided to live with that. However, when I opened the laptop again this morning, I found that the Tab key, although it still works, moves up and down very slowly; it takes a second or two to pop back up after I press it. There really isn't any tactile feedback to speak of, so it's worse than when I started. Tapping it quickly a few times didn't cause it to release, the way it used to. I'm about to order a new rubber spring and hinge kit (and maybe a key cap). How should I install the new spring to make the Tab key act like new again? Is there a specific way I should clean off the old rubber and super glue?

I am looking for information about what macs are considered unibody and wondering if there are any notable advantages and/or disadvantages to this fabrication style. Answers that address marketing material as well as lifecycle data or experiences for largish deployments of macs with real life failure rates or data would be great to read.

I'm still confused with the use of this word. In Everymac.com for example, Unibody macbook pros are 2008 to 2012 (up to Retinas). But then it's also used in Macbooks (not Pros). Is there a definition of this term that’s somewhat authoritative?

I have a 2016 15" MacBook Pro and I want to know if it is normal that when I lift the lid, it moves more freely than I expect. - In other words, if I gently push the lid without changing the opening angle, the lid moves and returns to its place. Previously I had a MacBook Air, and this did not happen, that's causing me to worry. Here is video showing movement and hinge action for my MacBook Pro Is this normal?

Would it damage to put out cigarettes on the chassis of aluminum mac books?

please how can I repair these scratches on my Macbook pro they made me so sad.

Black is turning green - but not everywhere and not on screendump or on my ext. screen (photo taken with iPhone). If I press the unibody hard on the left side, then I can make the green disappear, but that's not a solution. This is a MacBook Pro (15”, mid-2010) 2.66GHz Intel Core i7 with 8GB 1067 MHz DDR3, an NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M 512 MB / Intel HD Graphics 288 Mb, and the OS is El Capitan v.10.11.6 To determine if the problem is caused by a graphics card or not, I would like to know if there is a way to have only one card/processor active at time?

I have a MacBook Unibody 2009 and am facing a weird issue. My laptop only works when it's connected to a power source but not on battery. As most of us would, I thought the battery was gone so I bought a new battery. However, after charging it I still had the same issue. So, I took it to a repair person whom I know and he told me it's some issue on the motherboard. Now I am not very sure how accurate his diagnosis is. Does anybody here know of or have a similar issue concerning MacBooks? Can anyone share some information on this?

Does anyone have this unibody from mid-2009? Has anyone upgraded it to 16GB RAM? If so, is it good news? Thanks!

My mid-2012 Macbook Pro's body is damaged beyond repair but the internal parts are still functional. Is it possible that I could assemble the parts into a 2011 body of the same size and have a functional laptop?

I'm trying to upgrade a MacBook from mid-2009 (it's the A1342, MacBook 6,1) with a new hard disk. The original one was a 250GB and the new one I'm trying to install has 500GB and it's a Toshiba. I've already created an Apple partition map in the new disk and formatted it to Mac OS Extended (Journaled), but the Mac always shows me the folder icon blinking with the question mark. I've tried booting from the original Install DVD and from the Snow Leopard DVD, with the option key and "C", but none of them seems to work. It doesn't show anything, not even the boot options. When I try the old disk it boots just fine. Do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I have noticed in that past 24 hours that two rigid and straight "lines" have developed as bulges on my Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 15 inch. They are noticeable when looking at it in the light and you can easily feel that they are raised above the case. They appear on the outer shell of the case (right of the mouse and near the keyboard) The bottom of the Mac is not warped. The hard drive also appears to be in good condition. Initially, I thought this was due to a battery failure and removed the battery. Despite this, the battery was fine (not warped or bulging). I noticed that the two bulges in the case appear over where the hard drive is in a MacBook Pro. There is also a "semi circular" bulge near these two lines. What could be causing these if it is **not** the battery? Also, is there any chance that these bulges could expand? Edit: After further inspection it appears to have occurred exactly over the bridge that holds the hard drive in place. (the long black piece with the two screws in it). I have added a picture. Sorry, they are really hard to see. Note: The two lines look like shadows and are somewhat difficult to see in (any) photo. Edit: more photos  The second image (below) shows what is under the bulge. Maybe something looks out of place? 

Inspired by this question: https://apple.stackexchange.com/q/197697/123520 Could the heat generated from a MacBook Pro (over a period of several hours running at around 100% CPU usage) warp an area of the Unibody shell? Specifically- would this be a possibility if it was a Mid 2010 Unibody Case?

I had an older macbook with a plastic shell. I broke and replaced the screen several times over it's lifespan. I now have a MacBook with an aluminum body and am really nervous about cracking the screen. Should I be that nervous? Have you seen an aluminium cased MacBook with a cracked screen? Is getting a "MacTruck" case overkill? **Update:** 20 months of use with a thin Speck case and no cracked screens.

Macbook suddenly froze while I was using Google Chrome so I waited for 15 minutes hoping it would un-freeze. After 15 minutes, I decided to force the power off by pressing and holding the Power button. When I tried to turn it on again, I heard the chime, but the screen remained white, and the hard drive started making clicking noises. Model identifier: MacBook6,1 OS X 10.10 Yosemite

I have a Macbook that the OS has crashed (I am not 100% sure if the Hard Drive is dead, but I would like to save the files before anything else). When I boot up, the screen just remains grey and there is a spinner that stays on forever. I thought that if I got a thunderbolt cable and connected that Macbook to my other Macbook Pro, I could boot the crashed drive Macbook into Target mode and then get access to the files. That doesn't seem to be working and now I am re-reading the instructions it seems that the target computer needs to be bootable (i.e. into OS X, which mine is not). I'm not familiar with how to take this unibody MacBook Pro apart. So how do I get access to those files, before I reinstall the OS?

## Dimensions The (unoffical) dimensions which I found are: * 9.5mm slot load ## Software There is free Blu-ray player software [available](http://www.videolan.org/) for the Mac and **[Toast Titanium 11](http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/toast/titanium/capture.html)** is able to burn Blu-ray discs. As it turns out, there are only few Blu-ray drives which are compatible (dimension-wise) with a unibody MacBook Pro and the lack of Apple support for this media makes driver support, associated software and other requirements makes reliable information on using a BlueRay drive with OS X and Macs hard to come by. ## Question How can I know if a specific internal Blu-ray drives will work when installed in the unibody MacBook Pro? _(both specific models you know work with specific OS answers and answers to explain this in general would be of use)_